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drilling glass question

Discussion in 'General Reef Discussions' started by sailoracu2, Oct 1, 2011.

  1. sailoracu2
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    sailoracu2
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    I need to drill 3 tanks for drain line that will drain into the sump, I’m not sure what size bulk head, hole saw to use. The main tank is draining to the basement, the first 20 gal. Will be a deep sand bed, the second 20gal will be for a frag tank and the third 20 tall will be for an algae scrubber. Should I use ¾, 1” or 1 ¼ for a drain line?
     
  2. Renton777
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    I had considered drilling a tank once before. But after looking at the cost of the proper saw bit and running the risk I might mess it up I checked around. I found that the Salty Critter will drill it. Just a thought. You may be handier then I am and prefer the d.i.y. I just drew the line at drilling glass.

    Sounds like a cool setup you are working on!
     
  3. SirAzor
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    http://flexpvc.com/WaterFlowBasedOnPipeSize.shtml

    there is a list of various sizes of PVC, and their flow rate at various pressures.
    your drain line, is obviously gravity, so the green section is where you would want to look.
    so 3/4" will allow a flow of 660 GPH, 1" is 960 GPH and 1 1/4" is 1500 GPH.

    next you need to figure out your return pump, and its flow rate. if your pumping in 800GPH, you dont want a drain that can only handle 660.

    leave room for potential upgrades as well. you cant do anything wrong by oversizing your drain.
     
  4. sailoracu2
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    Thanks for the flow chart SirAzor. I have a mag 12; the return should be 750 gallons, so 1” should work.
     
  5. SirAzor
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    glad i could help :)

    I knew all those years of plumbing would come in handy.
     
  6. CleveYank
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    I would use 1 1/4 because you can always use the larger pump if the need arises.
    Once it's all 1 inch it's expensive to go back and redo it all if you find you need more flow.
     
  7. chuggy
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    jim ive drilled hundreds of tanks if you need help lmk i have the saw for 1 and 1 1/2" i would stay away from the 1 1/4" the fittings are not readily available
     
  8. CleveYank
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    water adapts edit.JPG

    That's why I use these to join bulkhead outs to the returns.
    They seal tight and as long as the lines are not just supported by these adapters you are fine.
    I use plastic plumbing strap to hold the lines in place to take the pressure off of these water adapt joints and the PVC.
    Something gets in or you need to clean them it's a snap.
    The rubber lasts forever and the stainless steel clamps just need checking to prevent rust about once a year.

    Just another way of getting the same things done. There's no 100% rule that it must be done either way.
     
    #8 CleveYank, Oct 2, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 2, 2011
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